Lilyvale Tunnels

The two Lilyvale tunnels — Nos. 5 and 6 on the original Illawarra line — sit between Helensburgh and Lilyvale railway station on the climb toward Otford. They are among the lesser-known tunnels in the area, partly because they lie on private land and Metropolitan Colliery’s rail corridor.

At a glance

Both tunnels had a working life of just 27 years before the Helensburgh deviation (completed 1915) bypassed this alignment for easier grades and greater capacity.

On the original Illawarra line

While researching the old single-line railway alignment through Helensburgh and surrounds, I discovered Lilyvale Tunnel No. 1 through Google Earth and historic maps. The Lilyvale tunnels formed part of the original South Coast / Illawarra line, built to link Sydney with the southern coalfields and farming country.

From Lilyvale, the alignment ran north through Tunnel No. 1, then No. 2, before crossing what is now Metropolitan Colliery’s coal storage area and entering the dead-straight Metropolitan Tunnel (No. 4) — emerging at Helensburgh’s first railway station, part of which still stands at the Station Reserve.

For the fatal 1895 accident that may have occurred in Lilyvale Tunnel No. 1, see Death in the Railway Tunnel.

After rail closure — mushroom farming

Both tunnels were used for mushroom cultivation after they ceased carrying trains — and for much of their post-rail life they were more mushroom tunnels than railway tunnels. Painted walls inside both bores date from those years.

My father relayed stories of a gentleman who ran mushroom production in both tunnels, monitoring compost temperatures very closely for maximum yield. The Helensburgh Mushroom Co. Q&A page notes that Marsh Lawson’s Lilyvale Mushroom Company also used railway tunnels in the area, likely including Lilyvale and possibly the Cawley Tunnel.

Ian’s story — childhood visits

Ian’s story — return visit

I recently had the opportunity to visit the area again — with big thanks to a local property owner who granted access. It had been a good 20 years since I last rode my bike down there.

Today it is peaceful, tranquil and still. The air echoed with whipbirds, lyrebirds and other fauna.

The lush green bushland made the hike enjoyable, but retracing my steps to the tunnels immediately had me scratching my head. The original dirt track running past Bucky’s is gone — completely overgrown. I managed to find a small track and continue past the power sub-station that sits approximately on the site of the 1st Lilyvale Railway Station.

Tunnel No. 2 (No. 6)

I made my way to the entrance of Lilyvale Tunnel No. 2 — the one I know best. Inside, blue metal is laid through its entire length: the tunnel is used by the railway and Metropolitan Colliery for access. For a structure more than 135 years old, it is in remarkable condition. The quality of the late-19th-century brickwork is astounding.

Painted walls on both sides reflect the mushroom-farming years. The tunnel seems lighter now than my memory suggests — one could walk through without a torch, though the curve near the northern end blocks any view from portal to portal.

Exiting the northern portal, I heard activity from Metropolitan Colliery. As I walked up the old alignment, a pair of diesel locomotives hauling coal wagons emerged from the current Lilyvale tunnel on the deviated line, heading north. Once they passed, the bush returned to serenity. The track veers left — and there is my answer from childhood: Lilyvale Tunnel No. 1.

Tunnel No. 1 (No. 5)

It seems almost nonsensical that the gangers did not blast a cutting through the hill — the tunnel passes only a small spur of Stuart’s Range. I walked straight through, noting the single set of manholes in the middle of the short bore.

The tunnel is almost completely dry, with little water leakage through the roof. Both facades are in excellent condition. Among the six disused tunnels around Helensburgh, this is likely the tunnel in best overall condition.

On the mine side, a heavy-gauge chain and lock secure a set of relatively new gates. On the day I visited the gate stood open and I passed through with permission. I was told there are beautiful culverts under the new and old alignments, but I could only locate one — apparently inaccessible.

Continuing out of Tunnel No. 1, I walked the old alignment until I reached the Metropolitan Colliery boundary, fenced and gated. On the return journey I visited the site of the 2nd Lilyvale Railway Station, which I remembered from my youth. No traces of either Lilyvale station or its overbridge survive today — see Lilyvale Railway Station for the full history.

Location

The tunnels lie on private property south of Lilyvale, between the colliery and the old Illawarra alignment. The map below shows the general area — not a public access route.

Related pages

• Railway Tunnels near Helensburgh
• Lilyvale Railway Station
• Lilyvale — The Almost Forgotten, Part 1
• Lilyvale — The Almost Forgotten, Part 2
• Metropolitan / Glow Worm Tunnel
• Metropolitan Colliery
• Death in the Railway Tunnel
• Otford Tunnel

Originally published on Helensburgh.com.au, 1 November 2009.